Friday, March 21, 2008

Wings of Unreason , Roaches

I had to have ago. I like trying routes that are hard for the short, and it looked amazing!

The crux came way to early for my liking... Ohhh, Do i have to do the E4 bit now? Getting onto the slab!! Wow what a rockover! I couldn't reach any of the holds on the upper slab, apart from a 2 finger undercling. This proved just enough. Now stood on the slab rather excited I found a Ok Rp Slot. Calming me down I padded up the slab, heart in my mouth... Untill another cheeky Walker popped his head over the edge. " How is it!?" "Scary!" came my Censored response. Reaching the pocket Clipped in my Friend 2 into a slot designed for Friend 2's! Shit the tops far away! Standing in the pocket for around 10 Minutes... I decided i couldn't make the jump straight from the foot holds. A smear was needed. and a palm smear. One foot out of the pocket. Hand palmed down, another foot smeared... Shit no going back now!! I jumped up to the jug...expecting to go shooting down the slab. My Fingers curled round the jug and I had a little dance on the top.

Grade? How can you grade it!! E3+? but that move on top felt pretty hard 6a maybe 6b. E3 6b? Its well protected... but maybe not 6b? Iam Happy with the E4 grade really, but would go jumping on any real E4's untill ive stopped falling/failing off E3's!

Photo to come!

San Melas, Roaches.

17th March 2008

Anyone who climbs with me will know, i hate slabs. I like something to hold onto, like a bit of gear, and iam pretty good at overhangs/cracks so normally my hardest O/S are onces that people regard as Pumpy or Bold or Both! Well iam sick of not liking slabs, and after watching Stone Monkey, it occurred to me shorties can be ok on slabs too!

I padded up the first few moves to a place i decided i couldn't fall of anymore. Muttering "I f*cking ate Slabs" I committed to a rockover. I was hopping this move would brill me to the break but it didn't. One more smear. Looking between my legs I eyeballed Rob. " Iam coming off backwards if i Deck it Rob... Watch me!" maybe i can downclimb? a Top rope?... Shit my smear moved, A quartz gain under my wornout boots now separated me from the break and Robs arms. I commited slowly rocking over onto the smear. The break came, "thank f*ck for that" Great Gear was soon plugged in, and i stood in the break. Looking up a line of smears lead to the top. After the rain Chalk didnt mark the way but dead Algea Stained white from it. Now relaxed I enjoyed the upper moves flowing from rock overs to smear padding. One pull of a sloper and another rockover lead to the top, after of course another look between my legs at the now distance gear.

Rob came up slowly but surely, and we sat on top as a few walkers took our photo of the empty crag. A great mirco route that kept its interest the whole way. Highly recommended as a good first E3 (if you like slabs!!)

Photo to come!