Friday, March 21, 2008

Wings of Unreason , Roaches

I had to have ago. I like trying routes that are hard for the short, and it looked amazing!

The crux came way to early for my liking... Ohhh, Do i have to do the E4 bit now? Getting onto the slab!! Wow what a rockover! I couldn't reach any of the holds on the upper slab, apart from a 2 finger undercling. This proved just enough. Now stood on the slab rather excited I found a Ok Rp Slot. Calming me down I padded up the slab, heart in my mouth... Untill another cheeky Walker popped his head over the edge. " How is it!?" "Scary!" came my Censored response. Reaching the pocket Clipped in my Friend 2 into a slot designed for Friend 2's! Shit the tops far away! Standing in the pocket for around 10 Minutes... I decided i couldn't make the jump straight from the foot holds. A smear was needed. and a palm smear. One foot out of the pocket. Hand palmed down, another foot smeared... Shit no going back now!! I jumped up to the jug...expecting to go shooting down the slab. My Fingers curled round the jug and I had a little dance on the top.

Grade? How can you grade it!! E3+? but that move on top felt pretty hard 6a maybe 6b. E3 6b? Its well protected... but maybe not 6b? Iam Happy with the E4 grade really, but would go jumping on any real E4's untill ive stopped falling/failing off E3's!

Photo to come!

1 comment:

Bunchuk said...

Inspiring stuff, would like to see the photo.